A neighborhood on Korea's south coast was one demolition permit away from disappearing forever — until a handful of artists picked up paint cans and turned it into one of the most photographed villages in the country.
Tongyeong doesn't show up on most first-timers' Korea itineraries, and locals seem almost relieved about that. Wedged between more than 500 islands on the country's southern coast, this small port city has quietly earned the nickname "Korea's Naples" for its harbor views, and it's home to a rice-only gimbap that predates the seaweed-wrapped version most travelers already know. Give it a weekend and you'll understand why people who've been keep going back.
The rotating palette of Dongpirang's hillside murals — repainted by new artists every few years
A Village That Was Almost Torn Down for a Parking Lot
In 2007, the hillside neighborhood now known as Dongpirang was slated for demolition to make room for a marina and parking facility. Local community groups pushed back by inviting artists to paint the aging houses instead of bulldozing them, and the grassroots campaign worked well enough to stop the project entirely. Today the same steep alleys are covered in murals that shift every few years as new artists repaint over old ones, which means the village genuinely looks different depending on when you visit — there's no single "correct" version of Dongpirang to see in photos beforehand.
The Gimbap With Nothing Inside It
Chungmu gimbap looks almost like a mistake the first time it arrives at your table: small rolls of plain white rice wrapped in seaweed, with no vegetables, egg, or meat tucked inside at all. The filling comes separately, in the form of radish kimchi and spicy stir-fried squid served on the side, and the dish traces back to fishing boat wives who packed rice this way in the 1930s and 40s because seasoned fillings spoiled quickly on long boat trips while plain rice and fermented radish held up fine.
Order it at Tongyeong Jungang Market, which has operated in some form for nearly 400 years. The squid side dish varies noticeably in spice level between stalls, so if you're heat-sensitive, ask for it "deol maewo" (less spicy) before it lands on the table rather than after.
Dongpirang, 2007
A quietly aging hillside neighborhood slated for demolition to build a marina parking lot — no murals, no tourists, no cafes.
Dongpirang, Today
One of Korea's most-photographed mural villages, repainted periodically, ringed by cafes and a digital art park called DPIRANG.
Nine Minutes Above "Korea's Little Naples"
The Tongyeong cable car climbs 1,975 meters up Mt. Mireuksan in about nine minutes, reaching a summit platform 461 meters above sea level with a glass-floored skywalk that isn't for anyone afraid of heights. For years it held the record as Korea's longest tourist ropeway, and on a clear day the view stretches across the harbor and out toward the scattered islands of Hallyeohaesang National Park — the same coastline that earned Tongyeong its "Naples of Korea" comparison in the first place. Field Note: the cable car shuts down in high winds without much warning, so build in a backup half-day if the weather looks unsettled before you commit to a ticket.
A Weekend That Doesn't Repeat Itself
Ride the cable car early before crowds and wind pick up, then walk the skywalk at the summit for the full island view.
Climb through Dongpirang's mural alleys, then eat Chungmu gimbap and a bowl of oyster rice soup at Jungang Market nearby.
Order fresh sashimi from a market stall and watch the harbor lights come on from a waterfront bench near Gangguan.
Take a short ferry into Hallyeohaesang National Park's islands, or ride the coastal luge track if you'd rather stay onshore.
Personal Take: what sold me on Tongyeong wasn't the cable car view, impressive as it is — it was realizing that autumn, September through November, is peak oyster season here, and the ganjang gejang (soy-marinated raw crab) runs noticeably cheaper than the Seoul equivalent while tasting fresher off the boat.
Getting There
From Busan's Seobu Bus Terminal, intercity buses reach Tongyeong in about 1.5 to 2 hours for roughly 11,000 to 13,000 won, making it the easiest jumping-off point. From Seoul's Gyeongbu Express Bus Terminal, direct buses take closer to 4 hours 10 minutes and cost 38,600 to 50,200 won, so pairing Tongyeong with a Busan stop is the more efficient route for most international visitors.
📌 Key Takeaways
- Dongpirang mural village exists today only because a 2007 demolition plan was stopped by artists painting the condemned houses instead of tearing them down.
- Chungmu gimbap serves plain rice rolls separately from its radish kimchi and spicy squid because fishing families needed rice that wouldn't spoil on long trips.
- Autumn (September to November) is peak oyster season in Tongyeong, making it one of the best times of year to combine the cable car, the mural village, and the seafood.
Is Tongyeong doable as a day trip?
It's possible from Busan given the 1.5 to 2 hour bus ride, but two nights lets you see the cable car, Dongpirang, the market, and an island ferry without rushing.
What makes Chungmu gimbap different from regular gimbap?
It's plain rice wrapped in seaweed with no filling inside — the radish kimchi and spicy squid are served separately on the side instead.
Why is Tongyeong called Korea's Naples?
The comparison comes from its harbor setting ringed by hills and scattered islands, similar in feel to the Italian coastal city.
When is the best time to visit for seafood?
Autumn through winter, roughly September to February, when oysters are in peak season and at their sweetest.
Tongyeong doesn't try particularly hard to impress you, and that's exactly what makes it stick. A city that nearly lost its most distinctive neighborhood to a parking lot now hands out some of Korea's best harbor views for free, and a gimbap almost nobody outside the region orders correctly on the first try. It's the kind of place you plan a "quick stop" for and end up rearranging your whole trip around.
Drop a comment below, and tell me if you've tried Chungmu gimbap the "correct" way yet.